Tuesday 6/28/2022 - Day 17 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Tuesday June 28, 2022 I began my day with my daily morning walk around Gros Morne RV Park and Campground. It is a nice park with some perfect open sites for caravans and some wooded sites for individuals. Then we carpooled through Norris Point to the docks for a boat tour. Norris Point is located on the northern side of Bonne Bay and is named after one of its first settlers, Neddy Norris, who came to the area with his wife and children between 1789 and 1790. The Norris’s apparently disappeared or left the area and consequently there is no official account of their residency. 

William and Charlotte Humber from Dorset, England are listed as the first permanent settlers of Norris Point, arriving in 1833. No other families resided in Norris Point until the spring of 1858. At this time, George and Susannah Harding, Matthew and Frances Smith (Harding’s brother and sister-in-law) and other extended family members left Burnt Island and sailed to the coast of Labrador for the summer fishery. Their ship was caught in a heavy gale and they sought shelter at Whales Cove, currently called Wild Cove. Rather than continue to Codroy when the storm subsided two days later, the Hardings and Smiths continued to Norris Point, where they erected temporary living quarters. In the fall they returned to build permanent houses. Future residents of Norris Point originated from England, Ireland and Scotland and came mainly because of the fall herring fishery and, like the others, found Bonne Bay to be a convenient location from which to access the coastal waters of Labrador. Their primary sources of employment included the lobster fishery; five local lobster factories and a herring fishery had been established in Norris Point. Although fishing was the dominant industry, fur trapping also provided a supplemental source of income.

A trading post was erected around 1800 by Joseph Bird, an English merchant. Later, fur trading gained popularity at the post. The local families would exchange fish and fur for supplies, foodstuffs and clothing. The trading post became so popular that laborers, servants and apprentices were brought from southwestern England during the summer to support it. In the early 1900s a ferry service was established and the population in 1921 had risen to 372, including 241 Church of England residents, 58 Methodist residents and 78 Roman Catholics. Around this time, residents had also begun to engage in the cod and salmon fishery. The construction and opening of Highway 430 connecting north and south Bonne Bay in 1968 made travel to other areas much easier. Before this highway was completed residents of the north of Bonne Bay had to travel to Norris Point, cross by ferry to Woody Point, then get a bus to Deer Lake for the train to St. John’s or bus to Corner Brook for medical attention or even work. In winter the north side of Bonne Bay was pretty much isolated.

We hopped on a BonTour Bonne Bay Boat Tour. We enjoyed climbing aboard the Catamaran and let the skipper and crew of the MV Emm-Cat take us on a guided tour of the Bay and area. In their opening pitch, they said they would fascinate us with the many breathtaking view and visual treasures hidden in their back yard. I have to admit, they did not disappoint! 

The live commentary throughout the tour highlights the geological wonders, the rich cultural history, the diversity of this fascinating bay, and was non-stop! When one guide needed a break, another crew member or the Captain, stepped right in!

During the Tour, we had the opportunity to view and photograph eagles and many incredible landscapes. An awesome tour with views of Gros Morne Mountain, the small villages that were nestled within the coves and lots of lobster traps buoys in the water and traps along the shores. The first item pointed out to us, was Burnt Hill. The hill is surrounded by water on three sides and the town on the other. It provides a spectacular view of Norris Point, the Tablelands and Main Arm of Bonne Bay. It is named Burnt Hill, due to a fire that cleared the hill of all vegetation.

Shag Cliff is a cliff within Newfoundland and is nearby to the South Arm of Bonne Bay. Shag Cliff is also close to Little Bay Head, Morris Cove, Wells Cove, south of Long Rocks, and southeast of Hennessey Island.

This 600 foot cliff is a great place to explore some of the unique geology of Gros Morne National Park.

We were lucky enough to see an immature bald eagle near Shag Cliff. Bald eagles are not actually bald; the name derives from an older meaning of the word, "white headed". The immature bald eagle, does not have a white head yet. The boat captain said he was a couple of years old. The adult is mainly brown with a white head and tail. The sexes are identical in plumage, but females are about 25 percent larger than males. The bald eagle is an opportunistic feeder which subsists mainly on fish, which it swoops down and snatches from the water with its talons.

As we passed this small waterfalls, our guide made a few jokes about this is the Newfoundland version of Niagara Falls … it has the American side and a Canadian side!

From Gadd’s Point, we crossed “the tickle.” The Tickle – the shallow area between two deep areas, can be rough.

We were able to spot a few more eagles.

There was a "new couple" that moved into a territory near the tickle that was vacated by an older couple of eagles. I could only capture them in the air!

Woody Point, Wharf burned John Roberts and his wife, Emma, together with their four children are considered to be the first settlers of Woody Point. They came in 1849. By 1872, there were 129 families residing in the Bonne Bay area. In 1873, the Bonne Bay Post Office was established in the home of J.R. Roberts, John Roberts' nephew. This house was one of the first built in the area and is still standing today. It is a blue clapboarded structure on the Shore Road left of the downtown. Plans are being made to restore this house. Solomon Wilton was the second settler to Woody Point. It was Wilton who donated the land on which the present day Church of the Epiphany was built. A school and parsonage once stood on this sport. These early founding families are laid to rest in the Anglican cemetery on Shore Road.

In 1922, when Woody Point was experiencing the height of its population and commercial success, a devastating fire ripped through the downtown. The wind quickly carried the flames which shot all the way across the Bay to Norris Point. In all, 58 buildings were destroyed. The degree of commerce in the town never returned to the pre-fire level. Most of the buildings currently on the waterfront date from after 1922, but there are some exceptions.

The lighthouse was built in 1919. Also, the large grey and green house to the right of the Lighthouse Restaurant was built in the 1890s. This house was the scene of a riot in 1938.

The crew, minus one guy driving the boat, entertained us with some live music. What a great experience.

We departed Gros Morne campground and began driving south on 430 toward our overnight stop in the Codroy Valley. We ran into some heavy rain on our way down!

Look closely and you can see people fishing in Flat Bay Brook. We think the water is still a bit chilly to be fishing, but not the native Newfoundlanders!

We are spending the night at Grand Codroy again, for a quick trip to the ferry in the morning. 

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset, this time! It even made our rugs look pink!