Monday 6/27/2022 - Day 16 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Monday June 27, 2022, we departed Triple Falls Campground and started our back tracking on Highway 430, along the west coast of Newfoundland. I could not leave this campground, without one more trip to Triple Falls on my morning walk!

We prayed for good travel weather with no wind. No one was listening, it was intermittently overcast with low hanging clouds and windy. Heading back the way we came, the time seems to go by more quickly.

It is amazing how the terrain can change form wooded areas to barren rocky ground in the blink of an eye.

We were through the forested area and back along the coast more quickly! 

Where the wind picks up and throws your RV around. Driving on the ocean side road, Charlie had to strain to keep the steering wheel from flying out of his hands. The Town of Anchor Point on the Great Northern Peninsula is the oldest English settlement in the area settled around 1740, by Robert Bartlett and his nephew Bob Genge from Somerset, England.  It was settled due to the rich fishing, sealing and trapping resources, where residents set-up winter housing at Deep Cove (now a national historic site). Today the community remains the key employer in the Straits from Eddies Cove East to Anchor Point, given the presence of a secondary shrimp processing facility, numerous fishing enterprises and services related to this industry.

We saw this sign, we have seen many of these signs along our travels. But every time you see a sign like this, you get a bit more vigilant. Canada is home to over 2 million caribou, medium-sized members of the deer family, which includes four other native deer species: moose, elk, white-tailed deer, and mule deer. The word “caribou” is believed to be derived from the Mi’kmaq word “xalibu” meaning “the one who paws.” All deer have cloven-hooved and are cud-chewing animals, but unlike other deer species, both male and female caribou have antlers. Caribou are well adapted to their environment, their bodies are short and stocky to conserve heat, with long legs to help move through deep snow. Long, dense winter coats insulate against cold temperatures and high winds, and muzzles and tails are short and hairy. A mature bull can weigh anywhere from 350 to 500 pounds.

The Torrent River runs hundreds of miles from the western slopes of the Long Range Mountains to the sheltered shores of Ingornachoix Bay. The Torrent River is a haven for Atlantic salmon. This is where they come in abundance to spawn. Eggs will hatch and develop before their long journey across the Atlantic Ocean, and return to the Torrent River to continue their life cycle.

We arrived at Gros Morne campground for our overnight stop just after 12pm and were greeted by our dawn patrol. We had time to set up and then were are taking a driving tour of Rocky Harbor. In Rocky Harbor, they have found arrowheads in the Salmon Point area, indicating that the Micmac Indian once inhabited the area. Then came the fishermen from England and France, some of whom eventually stayed all year round. As early as 1809, it is recorded that Mr. John Paine and his wife Sarah lived in Rocky Harbor Cove followed by the Youngs'. This fishing village, run by English Merchants, grew rapidly. Fishing during the summer and logging during the winter were the main industries. People grew their own vegetables, cured fish, preserved local berries and raised animals for food, clothing and for work. Woody Point was the "Commercial Center" of the area at that time and, everyone went there for the essentials, which they could not produce themselves. Everyone was busy and the village prospered.

After downtown Rocky Harbor, we hit the Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse. Lobster Cove Head marks the northern side of the entrance to Boone Bay. Inside the entrance, the bay separates into two fjords: the East Arm and the South Arm. The East Arm is by far the deepest and is practically surrounded by Gros Morne National Park, while the South Arm has a few settlements, including Woody Point, along its western shore.

In 1888, members of the legislative assembly for the district that included Lobster Cove, publicized the concern of the residents of his district over the lack of navigational aids in Bonne Bay. Each inhabitant of Rocky Harbour contributed a pint of oil each week to help fuel a light kept by a local fishermen in his own home. The residents felt they merited a stronger light provided by the government, and one resident even volunteered to keep it. Lobster Cove Head was selected in 1889 as one of four new lighthouse sites along the west coast of Newfoundland. Four years later, an iron tower was ordered from Victoria Iron Works of St. John’s, and the lantern and illuminating apparatus was ordered from Chance Brothers of Birmingham, England. In 1894, the lantern and apparatus arrived, but the light was not activated until the spring of 1898, when the necessary buildings had been constructed. 

Today, you can step inside our century old lighthouse that once served as a beacon to safely guide fishermen and sailing vessels into Bonne Bay. Today, it is the gateway for discovering the rich cultural heritage of Gros Morne National Park. The newly renovated exhibit highlights the people and heritage of the area, showcasing historical photos, audio recordings of folk songs and lightkeepers logbooks. You can take a seat at the kitchen table and chat with one of the friendly guides about everything from the lightkeepers families to what life is like along this coast.

Then we stopped at the Norris Point Lookout. Norris Point is a picturesque Newfoundland coastal community located at the doorstep of Gros Morne National Park of Canada. The community gets its name from the man, Neddie Norris, who is credited with being the first white man to settle in this area. Norris Point Lookout and Jenniex Heritage House are a photographers delight with breathtaking views of Norris Point and the Tablelands. 

The Tablelands were designated a World Heritage Site in 1987 which acknowledges the areas geological diversity and striking barren shapes. The Tablelands in Gros Morne National Park, Newfoundland, are one of two sites on earth where mantle rock lies exposed on the surface and is readily accessible to visitors. This rock, called peridotite, was forced to the surface in a tectonic event approximately 500 million years ago, and it has weathered into rich orange color as a result of the oxidation (rusting) of the iron in it. The earth's mantle, which makes up approximately 84% of the planet by volume, lies underneath the crust. Stepping onto mantle rock gives you an opportunity to ponder the ancient history of this planet. The viscous nature of the mantle, swirling slowly on a geologic time scale, is what causes the drifting of the continental plates and the formation of the mountains we climb. The iron that gives the weathered peridotite its rusty color has also enabled the planet to become magnetized, powering our compasses that we rely on for navigation. And the volcanism caused by the agitation of the mantle through the eons has released the vapors that now make up the atmosphere we fly through and the oceans we sail on. Reflecting on the connections between our adventures and the natural history of our planet is worth a day at this beautiful location in western Newfoundland.

Driving north, Wiltondale, is the gateway to Gros Morne National Park, driving south, Rocky Harbor is the gateway. With its fjords, mountains and spectacular ocean scenery, Gros Morne offers unexcelled opportunities for outdoor activities and sightseeing. Perhaps the best way to put Gros Morne National Park into perspective is to say that it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. That designation puts it on par with such natural wonders as Australia's Great Barrier Reef. Ancient glacial scraping and erosion formed the breathtaking landscape that makes this a paradise for the outdoor enthusiast and camper. Trail hiking, rock climbing, sightseeing, boating, swimming, camping and fishing are just some of the recreational activities on offer. 

A few caravanners enjoyed dinner at a local place in Rocky Harbor, then a quiet night in our full service campground and a peek at the sunset.