Wednesday 6/15/2022 - Day 4 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

Today is the day we traveled from St Andrews to St John. The Kiwanis Oceanfront Campground offers beautiful views of the bay, especially during sunrise! As we departed the campground, we passed under the Algonquin Hotel arch.

The hotel is a looming feature of St Andrew, as it sits atop the hill facing the Bay and overlooking the town. It has a rich history, steeped with fame, fortune, hardship and naturally a few ghosts! In 1889, The Algonquin Resort opens in Canada’s first seaside resort town, the cost of a room ranged between $3 and $5 per day. By 1894, the Algonquin Golf Course is opened. Construction of Painter Wing, named after Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) Chief Architect, Walter S. Painter, is completed in 1908, this added 100 rooms and 60 bathrooms. Four years later, the six-story “kitchen wing” is completed adding an additional 33 rooms and new kitchens. They added a building known as the Casino, featuring a ballroom, bowling alley, billiards and pool tables. Sadly, in 1914 a fire destroys most of the original hotel’s wooden structure, with the exception of the Painter Wing, Kitchen Wing and iconic tower. The resort had to close, but re-opens in 1915 after being rebuilt featuring the now familiar Tudor-style exterior and red roof. For the first time, all of the resort’s rooms featured telephone and electricity! The cost of a room at the new and improved resort ranged between $4 and $7 per day. The Algonquin Resort closed for two years during World War II.

In 1958, the last train to drop off guests to the Algonquin leaves the station after CPR discontinues rail service to St Andrews. In 1991, another expansion adds a new convention center and roof-top garden to the property.  The Algonquin is named Canada’s Resort of the Year by The Canadian Travel and Tourism Industry Association. Two years later, the Prince of Wales (it is across Prince of Wales St from the rest of the hotel) wing is built adding an additional fifty-four rooms and suites. The winter holiday seasons were celebrated for the first time at the Resort during the 1997-98 season. It marked the first time the Algonquin remained open all year round.

The hotel closed its doors for two years to make over $30 million in renovations. In 2014, The Algonquin Resort re-opens as the first Marriott Autograph Collection Hotel in Canada; Included in the renovation is the addition of an indoor pool and waterslide, balcony suites, and outdoor pavilion. Many dignitaries stayed here, Prime Minister Pierre Trudeau and his wife, Margaret pay an informal visit to the Algonquin during their vacation in New Brunswick. They hosted Prince Charles and Princess Diana during their 1983 visit to Canada.

We passed by the home of the Atlantic Salmon Federation. They are dedicated to the conservation, protection and restoration of wild Atlantic salmon and the ecosystems on which their well-being and survival depend. They work wherever there are Atlantic salmon in North America, out at sea, and internationally. The Atlantic Salmon has for centuries been named the king of fish for its power and grace. 

It is a symbol of all that is wild and beautiful to millions of people. This king fish is an important part of rural economies along the rivers where it spawns. It also carries an important bond between the culture of First Nations and all others who share its heritage. The conservation requires an international commitment and determination to see that numbers of North Atlantic Salmon are restored to historic levels, despite the obstacles of dams, acid rain, bad forestry practices and other abuses of our environment.

Located west of Saint John, NB in one of the most biologically productive natural settings in Atlantic Canada, Musquash is one of the last fully functioning estuaries in the Bay of Fundy. For generations, the stunning scenery surrounding the lower Bay of Fundy has drawn vacationers to its coastal islands and cobble beaches. The Nature Conservancy of Canada has been working at the Musquash Estuary since 2001 and has protected over 4,000 acres by conserving 21 properties through purchase or donation.

Located near the Estuary is the Musquash Marsh. It maintains much of its original physical and ecological features; it has no industry on its shores (although there is a thermal power plant on adjacent land), and there is very little residential development. Thus there are few sources of contamination to the area; those that do exist could be easily eliminated. Considering the dismal results of habitat assessment, and the critical role of supporting marine productivity and health, CCNB launched a campaign in 1998 to have the Musquash permanently protected from development or alteration through an MPA designation under the federal Oceans Act administered by the Dept. of Fisheries and Oceans. In 2006 the Musquash Marine Protected Area was formally designated.

Our first view of Saint John was of the harbor and all of its industry.

We arrived at Rockwood Park Campgrounds and worked together to get the whole caravan parked. Rockwood Park is a public park with over 2,200 acres. You can get back to nature in the heart of the city. The park offers many freshwater lakes for fishing, swimming, boating and skating. Rockwood is the hub of outdoor activities year round.

Over 55 trails and footpaths will guide you through the Park’s unspoiled charm, with its unusual topography and geography. A Stonehammer Geopark site, Rockwood’s billion years of history can be seen in unique rock formations, caves and waterfalls. Stonehammer is all about geology, but it is also about people, society and culture. You can discover all the fascinating treasures in New Brunswick’s all season natural amusement park at Rockwood Park.

We caravanned in cars to see the reversing falls at high tide. The reversing falls is framed by two bridges at one side, the paper plant in the middle and the beautiful countryside at the other side. The phenomenon of the Reversing Falls is caused by the tremendous rise and fall of the tides of the Bay of Fundy. The tide rises and falls once about every 12 and a half hours. To best appreciate the Reversing Falls, you should try to view them at least twice on a given day - near low tide and near high tide. A good water level vantage point from which to view the Falls is Fallsview Park, not far from the Reversing Falls Information Center.

As the bay tides begin to rise, they slow the course of the river and finally stop the river's flow completely. This short period of complete calm is called slack tide. It is only at this time that boats are able to navigate the Falls. Shortly after this slack tide the bay tides become higher than the river level and slowly, at first, the river begins to flow upstream. As the bay tides continue to rise, the reverse flow gradually increases and the rapids begin to form, reaching their peak at high tide. The effect of this reversal is felt upstream as far as Fredericton, more than 80 miles inland. At this point the tidal waters are actually 14 ½ feet higher than the river.

After our first trip to the falls, we headed to the City Market. At one time the City of Saint John controlled six markets; a fish market and wharf on Water Street, a cluster of sheds on Market Street called the Country Market, Sydney Market that served Lowe Cove, a Hay Market on King Street and a cattle market in King Square.  As Saint John grew not only in size but also in power the public came to realize that there was no need for six markets and they were centralized.

The first market building in Saint John was built in 1830 at Market Square at the head of Market Slip.  The building was made out of wood and ended up burning down in 1837.  Thus the city decided to recreate the building in 1839 making it out of brick but yet again it was destroyed in 1841. During the time that the market was in use, it served many different purposes:  the lower half of the basement was used as a general store.  The main floor which you could enter from King Street was used for the actual market and the upper floor was where they held court and where council had their chambers.

The market's distinctive design was selected in a competition among local architects, and constructed by the city's skilled tradesmen of the day. The Market Committee offered two prizes to architects for a Market design competition, and the Saint John City Market on Charlotte Street officially opened in 1876. In the nineteenth century Saint John was one of the world's leading shipbuilding centers, so it is no surprise that the roof of the City Market resembles the inverted keel of a ship. Hand-hewn timbers and dove-tailed joints that have stood fast for more than century attest to the skill and experience of the builders. Fortunately, the Great Fire of 1877 left the market building undamaged. Today the market is more vital and productive than in any time in its history. A full city block in length, the Market runs downhill from the “head of the Market” on Charlotte Street, gently sloping to the Germain Street entrance, a full 10 feet below. At both entrances hang the same gates that have swung closed at the end of each business day since 1880. Crafted from heavy wrought iron, their graceful design is a tribute to the skill and artistry of the local blacksmith who created them. The City Market, the oldest continuing farmer's market in Canada, forms the historic centerpiece of a revitalized city center.

We took a second tour the reversing falls again, at low tide. After high tide the bay tides begin to fall and the upstream flow of the river gradually lowers until the bay tides fall to the level of the river - once again resulting in another slack tide. The river then resumes its normal course and begins to flow back out of the bay. The bay tides continue to fall below the level of the river until at low tide the rapids are again at their peak, flowing down stream. At this point the tidal waters are 14 feet lower than the river level. In Saint John, the bay tides rise 28 feet. When the tide is low, the St. John River, 450 miles long, empties into the bay. Between Fallsview Park and the Pulp Mill, the full flow of the river thunders through a narrow gorge. An underwater ledge, 36 feet below the surface causes the water in the river to tumble downward into a 175-200 foot deep pool. Below the mill and under the bridge. The water then boils in a series of rapids and whirlpools.

We capped off this awesome day by chatting it up with our new found friends at Rockwood Park.

Tuesday 6/14/2022 - Day 3 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

It was a leisurely morning in St Andrews, NB. We had a tour scheduled with a 9 am departure. Today we took our bus tour of St Andrews on a luxury motor coach, with our driver, Gary and our tour guide, Jenny. Jenny is a biologist by trade, but loves people and history. So, several years ago, she transitioned into being a tour guide and biologist.

The first place we stopped was just outside the campgrounds, at the Bay. It is not the Bay of Fundy, but the waters do come from there … This is the Bay of Passamaquoddy.

Deer Island, is the island we can see from our campsites. This bay and the Bay of Fundy have several whales that migrate here … Humpbacks, Minke Whales, Finback Whales and North Atlantic Right Whales. Up to 12 species of whales are to be found in the Bay of Fundy during the summer months. The whales use the bay as a feeding ground, nursery and play area. They feast on the enormous amounts of krill, squid and schools of young herring, pollock and mackerel found in the bay as a result of the powerful Fundy tides.

Our campground was once used by the Passamaquoddy Indians, making this campground the oldest campground in New Brunswick. They had seasonal patterns of settlement. In the winter, they dispersed and hunted inland. In the summer, they gathered more closely together on the coast and islands of St Andrews, and primarily harvested seafood, including marine mammals, crustaceans, and fish.

We learned the most prevalent seaweed in this area is rockweed. It is a seaweed that has air pockets in the ends. This allows the weed to float, so they can photosynthesize the light.

Driving through town, we learned about the trap doors in some of the shops that were used to smuggle goods in and out. These buildings were built over the water, so the boats could come underneath to make the transactions. One of them is in the Harbor Front Restaurant, where we ate last night!

We toured the old jail and County court house. The court house was constructed in 1840 adjacent to the Charlotte County Jail. The building features a pediment portico, onto which a large Royal coat of arms was added in 1858 by Charles Kennedy. Back in the 1800s, the local courthouse was often the place where the community gathered. Such was the case for the Charlotte County Courthouse, built in 1839-40. In its early years, the building was a focal point for local activities such as elections, fairs, parades, and official visits. Thomas Berry designed this historic building in classical-revival style. It combines the plain practicality of a one-story clapboard structure with a remarkable temple facade, complete with a roof pediment supported by Tuscan columns. Still in use today, it is the oldest courthouse in continuous use in Canada. It is recognized as a National Historic site and Provincial Heritage Place.

Appropriately enough, the county jail sits right next door. This building is a little older, dating back to 1832, and is a Provincial Heritage Place. In fact, it was still used as a jail right up until the late 1970s. The jail was constructed in an attempt to correct all that was wrong about the previous one, no more dirt floors! It was built in 1832 on Frederick Street in St. Andrews. Massive slabs of gray granite were cut in Perry, Maine and laid as the floors, ceilings and walls of the prison.

Cell doors were made of solid iron, each with a sliding bolt to keep the door closed at all times. The only source of light was the small hole in the door used for delivering food to the prisoners and a small window measuring four inches wide and twelve inches high.

Doorways were made very narrow so that a prisoner, no matter their size, would have trouble overpowering the jailer. The only source of heat was a small wood stove at the end of the corridor outside of the cells. There were ten cells were used exclusively for male prisoners. They occupied the first floor of the jail.

The cells are six by eight feet in size and housed 1 or 2 prisoners each, at times. The cells are cold, claustrophobic and bereft of any comfort, which was the exact intention of their construction. Upstairs in the jail were four cells intended for women, children and debtors. These were much more comfortable than the ones downstairs as they were larger in size and had larger windows for more light. Children would be admitted to prison if their mother had committed a crime and there were no other caretakers available. Children were imprisoned for truancy. Debtors made up a large bulk of the prison population until the practice of imprisoning debtors ended in 1939. After spending time in there, it’s not hard to grasp the harshness of the early justice system.

We saw several historic churches, but I really can’t remember which is which … but the architecture is awesome on all of them! We had a private tour of the Greenock Presbyterian Church. When St Andrews was first settled by the United Loyalists in 1783, all Protestant denominations were content to worship together. At that time the Reverand Samual Andrews, a very popular individual, presided over the congregation. Upon his death in 1817, a less popular rector, took over and Presbyterians were prompted to seek a church of their own. In 1822, Captain Christopher Scott starting building the most beautiful and costly church buildings in New Brunswick, finished in the Palladian style. A gallery is supported by ten solid pillars of bird’s-eye maple harvested locally. The facings of the galleries and pulpit are solid mahogany with bird’s-eye and tiger maple trim.

The most striking feature of the interior is the pulpit, which rises by two stages to the level of the gallery. The design had been obtained by Scott from his birthplace, Greenock Scotland, which also gave the church its name. The pulpit was constructed over a two year period by two skilled workmen. It was framed and pegged together without nails.

We learned that the pews had doors and they were “rented” to families, because being “seen” in church was very important to ones stature in the community.

At the other end of town is the St Andrews block house, is the British’s form of defensive structure. This block house was built for the war of 1812 and contains elements of the oldest blockhouse in New Brunswick. Situated on the Niger Reef on Passamaquoddy Bay, it provided an excellent vantage point for soldiers keeping a watchful eye. This was one of 12 such structures used to defend New Brunswick during the war between Britain and the US.

It was partially destroyed by fire in 1993, but has been carefully restored. Today it looks much the same as it did in 1812, when British soldiers stationed there were on the lookout for American invaders. Jenny, our tour guide pointed out that the cannons still point toward the US … ha ha ha

We made a quick stop on Bar Road, to see the high tide. We were running late for lunch and we did not get out to get pictures at high tide, like we did at low tide. Too bad, it was really high! The bar that connects Ministers Island to the mainland is under at least 14 feet of water at high tide.

We enjoyed an exquisite lunch at Rossmount Inn. Our starter was potato and leek soup with a rosemary oil drizzle. Our entrees were Salmon or Chicken and our desert was Panna Cotta with Strawberry Rhubarb Compote with a mint leaf. Everything was delicious!

The Rossmount Inn is a 3-story Country Inn. It is situated on over 80 acres at the base of Chamcook Mountain. Along with the beautiful view of the Passamaquoddy Bay and Minister’s Island, it also holds some remarkable history. The property was first owned by one of the Townsend brothers of Chamcook who were shipbuilders and cabinet makers. The building was painted a straw color with brown trim and the roof had a maroon tint, colors that remain today. The carriage house, built in 1889, still remains behind the Inn. This scenic site formed part of the Townsend property which was for sale. When the Rosses purchased the property they renamed it “Rossmount”. Records indicate they paid $4,500 in 1902.

Once the Rosses owned the Chamcook Estate, it became the focal point in their lives. From 1910 to 1914 major improvements were accomplished in the estate, both on the interior of the house and on the grounds. In 1909, when Mr. Ross retired from the ministry, Rossmount became their permanent home for a few years. After the responsibility of taking care of Mr. Ross’ adoptive parents was over, the Rosses became world travelers.  The Rosses entertained their many visitors by daily drives to surrounding areas plus boat trips, picnics, clam bakes and lobster boils. World travelers and collectors of fine artifacts, Henry Phipps Ross and his wife Sarah Juliette Ross lived at their beautiful “Rossmount” until their deaths within eight days of each other in 1945.

In 1961, the house was destroyed by a fire but soon after the Simes family of Saint John built the present Inn on the magnificent site. The building was built on top of the original foundation, incorporating the still standing chimneys and front steps. The builder John Sime searched the world for the chandeliers, woodwork and the furnishings. A chess master designed the staircase and hand carved chess figures that pose along the banister. The current owners and operators, for the last 15 years, are Chris and Graziella Aerni. Chris is the Chef that prepared our delicious lunch! They, along with their staff, will provide you with true Maritime hospitality and ensure that your visit will be a memorable one.

After lunch, Sheryl, Gary and Charlie & I took care of some Yankee business, getting ready for our next move.

We all enjoyed dinner on our own and had our road log meeting to review the road log and enjoy some fellowship!

See you on day 4!

Monday 6/13/2022 - Day 2 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Monday June 13th, we worked the rows of caravanners ensuring all were ready to depart at 8am and had no issues. We departed 5 minutes early, I said this group was going to be great! We took Route 2 & 100 and got onto I-395 to 1A. We skirted Bangor and went through Holden.

We turned off Route 1A onto Route 46. It was a connector road that took us to Route 9. On Route 9, we followed it all the way to the intersection of Route 1 at our fuel stop.

As we were driving, we kept watching the fog “breath” as it covered, then uncovered the mountain top. Lead Mountain was off to the west, as we headed north toward the Canadian border. It stands about 1,500 feet high. There was a great deal of ups and downs on this route! However, this drive did offer us some scenic vistas!

We made a rest stop at a designed truck pull off. It was a nicely paved large area, ample space for the entire caravan to pull off, take a break and walk all the 4-legged caravaneers!

The little town of Alexander had a Tractor museum and a well drilling business. I missed the complete picture of the Tractor Museum.

In Baileyville, Maine we turned right onto Route 1 and gassed up at the Irving Gas station. The restaurant across the street allowed us to use their parking lot to stage, before we left. Too bad they did not have any lobster ready yet ... we definately would have purchased a few!

We used the St Stephens 3rd Bridge to enter Canada. Our time at the border with our Canadian Customs Agent was extended! We were lucky enough to be “selected” for inspection. We were in good company, our Wagon Masters, a couple from California and Pennsylvania got selected to be inspected too! We had to open all the slides, unlock all the compartments and open our safe. He asked if the RV ever had guns in it. We said yes and he asked where. We told him. He wanted to know if the dog alerted that was a possible reason. The dog went through our car and RV. They spent about 30 – 45 minutes going over just our rig. All of the border agents were professional and courteous.

St Stephen is the first town we came to in Canada. We entered the Trans Canadian Hwy #1. We followed this highway until we came to Route 127. Most of the caravanners went to an Irving station at Exit 9A to wait for us. The border agent suggested that rally point. I think it was a good idea and we need to add it into the road log for next year’s trip. We caught up with everyone as they were getting back on the Trans Canada Hwy #1. We went to Exit 25 and made our way into St Andrews by the Sea. It is a beautiful little harbor town. 

We even had a few locals come out to welcome us!

We are staying at the Kiwanis Oceanfront Campground, it is on the end of a peninsula. The Passamaquoddy Bay is directly in front of us.

We enjoyed a dinner with all the caravaneers at the Harbor Front Restaurant

After dinner, we caravanned to Bar Road, to see the sand bar to Minister’s Island. It is a Provincial and Federal historic site and is managed by the Van Horne Estate, a community based non-profit organization dedicated to preserving the nature and history of the island. The island is safely accessible for 5 hours during low tide.

Keeping up with our daily activity, Gary & I laced up our sneakers and hit the pavement. We traveled up Prince of Wales St, there is a marble Irish cross erected between the street and the bay in a grassy area.

The story behind the cross is sad. Just off shore is Little Hardwood Island, used extensively during the mid-1800s as a quarantine station. The tiny island, comprising less than three acres sits in Passamaquoddy Bay next to its larger sister, Hardwood Island. A small hospital with simple medical facilities opened in 1832 to manage a cholera outbreak. In 1847, the site, renamed Hospital Island, became overwhelmed when medical staff attempted to handle the mass influx of Irish Famine immigrants. The Irish, hoping to find a new life in the New World, died from typhus onboard ship. Many died on the journey here.

Those who died while in quarantine were interred on the tiny island, the exact number of deaths unknown. Some estimated the death toll as high as 400. Similar to conditions at other quarantine stations along the St. Lawrence River, some of those who came to aid the sick became infected themselves and died. If the pitiful situation at Hospital Island wasn’t enough to raise sympathy for the plight of the Irish people, newspaper reporters wrote that in 1869, the Saxby Gale was so vicious a storm, it washed away soil from the Irish cemetery, uncovering coffins, and exposing skeletons. Bones that washed ashore on the mainland were desecrated, with awful stories circulating of children using human skulls to kick around. It would take a decade before what could be collected of the deceased Irish remains were re-interred in a more sheltered area of the island. A Celtic cross memorial to the Irish who died at Hospital Island stands at Indian Point along the shoreline in St Andrews. Erected in May, 1995, the monument features various symbols depicting the Irish story including a shamrock, fiddle, and sailboat, representing their tragic voyage.

Just beyond the cross, there is a unique granite sculpture. The sculpture calls it, “Story of the Stone.” She believes it represents lines and forms reaching out from the stone as roots from a tree or veins. Stone is the earth on which we walk. It is alive, gives us life, and carries our history. The forms emerge from the stone as from the heart as a source where life is born. Karin van Ommeren, completed the sculpture at the 2014 Sculpture Saint John symposium. She is from the Netherlands, but currently works and lives in both the Netherlands and Italy.

Tomorrow is another day in St Andrews!

Sunday 6/12/2022 - Day 1 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

Today, I begin blogging about our Two Lane Adventure as the Tail Enders for Yankee RV Tours 2022 Canadian Maritimes #2 caravan.

We spent Sunday morning preparing for our welcome event at 12:30. Our staff team is super special. Charlie and I are very blessed to work with Gary & Sheryl Lalonde. They are such awesome leaders and friends, sometimes it does not even feel like work!

So, the first “official” event of the caravan is always Root beer floats! Every Yankee events starts with this sweet treat! Who does not like a good root beer float!

Starting at 1:00 we had the welcome from Gary. We spent the remainder of the afternoon introducing ourselves and learning about the other caravaneers. It is amazing, how much you have in common with others … I think this group of caravanners is going to gel quickly and we will have a great trip! We learned what everyone was most excited to see on this caravan, it ranged from the tidal bore, the Bay of Fundy, the flowers, the culture, Moose, the extreme tides, and icebergs.

At 4:45 pm, the cars lined up and we had our first “caravan” to a scheduled 5:00 pm dinner at Angler’s Restaurant. We had a private room, with one row of tables. At each meal, Yankee asks you to sit with a different couple. This practice allows you to meet all the other caravaneers and stops “clicks” from creating and makes the group gel much faster! 

It must work, because the buzz in the room was loud … until the food was served! Once we got back to the campground, it was almost 3 hours later, some sat out for a bit, but most began picking up and preparing for our move tomorrow morning.

Stay tuned to see where we go on day 2!

#YankeeRVtours

#TheAdventuresContinue

#CanadianMaritimes