Tuesday 6/14/2022 - Day 3 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

It was a leisurely morning in St Andrews, NB. We had a tour scheduled with a 9 am departure. Today we took our bus tour of St Andrews on a luxury motor coach, with our driver, Gary and our tour guide, Jenny. Jenny is a biologist by trade, but loves people and history. So, several years ago, she transitioned into being a tour guide and biologist.

The first place we stopped was just outside the campgrounds, at the Bay. It is not the Bay of Fundy, but the waters do come from there … This is the Bay of Passamaquoddy.

Deer Island, is the island we can see from our campsites. This bay and the Bay of Fundy have several whales that migrate here … Humpbacks, Minke Whales, Finback Whales and North Atlantic Right Whales. Up to 12 species of whales are to be found in the Bay of Fundy during the summer months. The whales use the bay as a feeding ground, nursery and play area. They feast on the enormous amounts of krill, squid and schools of young herring, pollock and mackerel found in the bay as a result of the powerful Fundy tides.

Our campground was once used by the Passamaquoddy Indians, making this campground the oldest campground in New Brunswick. They had seasonal patterns of settlement. In the winter, they dispersed and hunted inland. In the summer, they gathered more closely together on the coast and islands of St Andrews, and primarily harvested seafood, including marine mammals, crustaceans, and fish.

We learned the most prevalent seaweed in this area is rockweed. It is a seaweed that has air pockets in the ends. This allows the weed to float, so they can photosynthesize the light.

Driving through town, we learned about the trap doors in some of the shops that were used to smuggle goods in and out. These buildings were built over the water, so the boats could come underneath to make the transactions. One of them is in the Harbor Front Restaurant, where we ate last night!

We toured the old jail and County court house. The court house was constructed in 1840 adjacent to the Charlotte County Jail. The building features a pediment portico, onto which a large Royal coat of arms was added in 1858 by Charles Kennedy. Back in the 1800s, the local courthouse was often the place where the community gathered. Such was the case for the Charlotte County Courthouse, built in 1839-40. In its early years, the building was a focal point for local activities such as elections, fairs, parades, and official visits. Thomas Berry designed this historic building in classical-revival style. It combines the plain practicality of a one-story clapboard structure with a remarkable temple facade, complete with a roof pediment supported by Tuscan columns. Still in use today, it is the oldest courthouse in continuous use in Canada. It is recognized as a National Historic site and Provincial Heritage Place.

Appropriately enough, the county jail sits right next door. This building is a little older, dating back to 1832, and is a Provincial Heritage Place. In fact, it was still used as a jail right up until the late 1970s. The jail was constructed in an attempt to correct all that was wrong about the previous one, no more dirt floors! It was built in 1832 on Frederick Street in St. Andrews. Massive slabs of gray granite were cut in Perry, Maine and laid as the floors, ceilings and walls of the prison.

Cell doors were made of solid iron, each with a sliding bolt to keep the door closed at all times. The only source of light was the small hole in the door used for delivering food to the prisoners and a small window measuring four inches wide and twelve inches high.

Doorways were made very narrow so that a prisoner, no matter their size, would have trouble overpowering the jailer. The only source of heat was a small wood stove at the end of the corridor outside of the cells. There were ten cells were used exclusively for male prisoners. They occupied the first floor of the jail.

The cells are six by eight feet in size and housed 1 or 2 prisoners each, at times. The cells are cold, claustrophobic and bereft of any comfort, which was the exact intention of their construction. Upstairs in the jail were four cells intended for women, children and debtors. These were much more comfortable than the ones downstairs as they were larger in size and had larger windows for more light. Children would be admitted to prison if their mother had committed a crime and there were no other caretakers available. Children were imprisoned for truancy. Debtors made up a large bulk of the prison population until the practice of imprisoning debtors ended in 1939. After spending time in there, it’s not hard to grasp the harshness of the early justice system.

We saw several historic churches, but I really can’t remember which is which … but the architecture is awesome on all of them! We had a private tour of the Greenock Presbyterian Church. When St Andrews was first settled by the United Loyalists in 1783, all Protestant denominations were content to worship together. At that time the Reverand Samual Andrews, a very popular individual, presided over the congregation. Upon his death in 1817, a less popular rector, took over and Presbyterians were prompted to seek a church of their own. In 1822, Captain Christopher Scott starting building the most beautiful and costly church buildings in New Brunswick, finished in the Palladian style. A gallery is supported by ten solid pillars of bird’s-eye maple harvested locally. The facings of the galleries and pulpit are solid mahogany with bird’s-eye and tiger maple trim.

The most striking feature of the interior is the pulpit, which rises by two stages to the level of the gallery. The design had been obtained by Scott from his birthplace, Greenock Scotland, which also gave the church its name. The pulpit was constructed over a two year period by two skilled workmen. It was framed and pegged together without nails.

We learned that the pews had doors and they were “rented” to families, because being “seen” in church was very important to ones stature in the community.

At the other end of town is the St Andrews block house, is the British’s form of defensive structure. This block house was built for the war of 1812 and contains elements of the oldest blockhouse in New Brunswick. Situated on the Niger Reef on Passamaquoddy Bay, it provided an excellent vantage point for soldiers keeping a watchful eye. This was one of 12 such structures used to defend New Brunswick during the war between Britain and the US.

It was partially destroyed by fire in 1993, but has been carefully restored. Today it looks much the same as it did in 1812, when British soldiers stationed there were on the lookout for American invaders. Jenny, our tour guide pointed out that the cannons still point toward the US … ha ha ha

We made a quick stop on Bar Road, to see the high tide. We were running late for lunch and we did not get out to get pictures at high tide, like we did at low tide. Too bad, it was really high! The bar that connects Ministers Island to the mainland is under at least 14 feet of water at high tide.

We enjoyed an exquisite lunch at Rossmount Inn. Our starter was potato and leek soup with a rosemary oil drizzle. Our entrees were Salmon or Chicken and our desert was Panna Cotta with Strawberry Rhubarb Compote with a mint leaf. Everything was delicious!

The Rossmount Inn is a 3-story Country Inn. It is situated on over 80 acres at the base of Chamcook Mountain. Along with the beautiful view of the Passamaquoddy Bay and Minister’s Island, it also holds some remarkable history. The property was first owned by one of the Townsend brothers of Chamcook who were shipbuilders and cabinet makers. The building was painted a straw color with brown trim and the roof had a maroon tint, colors that remain today. The carriage house, built in 1889, still remains behind the Inn. This scenic site formed part of the Townsend property which was for sale. When the Rosses purchased the property they renamed it “Rossmount”. Records indicate they paid $4,500 in 1902.

Once the Rosses owned the Chamcook Estate, it became the focal point in their lives. From 1910 to 1914 major improvements were accomplished in the estate, both on the interior of the house and on the grounds. In 1909, when Mr. Ross retired from the ministry, Rossmount became their permanent home for a few years. After the responsibility of taking care of Mr. Ross’ adoptive parents was over, the Rosses became world travelers.  The Rosses entertained their many visitors by daily drives to surrounding areas plus boat trips, picnics, clam bakes and lobster boils. World travelers and collectors of fine artifacts, Henry Phipps Ross and his wife Sarah Juliette Ross lived at their beautiful “Rossmount” until their deaths within eight days of each other in 1945.

In 1961, the house was destroyed by a fire but soon after the Simes family of Saint John built the present Inn on the magnificent site. The building was built on top of the original foundation, incorporating the still standing chimneys and front steps. The builder John Sime searched the world for the chandeliers, woodwork and the furnishings. A chess master designed the staircase and hand carved chess figures that pose along the banister. The current owners and operators, for the last 15 years, are Chris and Graziella Aerni. Chris is the Chef that prepared our delicious lunch! They, along with their staff, will provide you with true Maritime hospitality and ensure that your visit will be a memorable one.

After lunch, Sheryl, Gary and Charlie & I took care of some Yankee business, getting ready for our next move.

We all enjoyed dinner on our own and had our road log meeting to review the road log and enjoy some fellowship!

See you on day 4!