We learned
from Marilyn, the “depot” where we bring goods for the inuits, that the first
Yankee caravan group was only there for about 30-45 minutes. We laid all ours
cards on the table with the caravanners and they decided as a group, that it
would not be an enjoyable trip, if everything was rushed or delayed due to road
construction. Plus, the possibility of spending the night over there on your
dime was not a popular thought.
When we got
up this morning, the fog was thick. The ferry was late arriving and almost an
hour late leaving … all the caravanners said, we had made a good decision. When
Gary & Sheryl went to the ticket office at 8:30 to cancel the reservations.
The agent said, we never would have made it up and back to the ferry with the
road construction.
On this ferry
route, you sail the Strait of Belle Isle, nicknamed Iceberg Alley for the
numerous icebergs that move along here. Initially, icebergs were a bane for
Newfoundland and Labrador trap fishermen. The massive chunks of ice that have
broken off of northern glaciers would drift through waters taking whatever
fishing gear that lay in its path with it. But with changing times it’s
something they have come to embrace, as the beauty of this ice rose just can’t
be denied. They are revered so much, that they have a 10-day Iceberg Festival
in early June.
At the end of
the paved section of Route 510 you'll find Red Bay. Red Bay is a natural harbor
residing in the bay that gives it its name, both names in reference to the red
granite cliffs of the region. Because of the sheltered harbor it was used
during World War II as a mooring site for naval vessels. In the bay are Penney
Island and Saddle Island, which were used by the Basques for their whaling
operations.
For the last
30 years, minus the years COVID canceled the tours, Yankee RV Tour Caravaneers,
have brought staples to a village leader in Red Bay. Marilyn and her husband
Bim, have helped the members of the most remote Inuit villages in Labrador. She
collects items that are donated and shares them with the villages she visits.
Rod, our caravan Wagonmaster, and owner of Yankee RV Tours, provides us a list
of items she needs.
Marilyn is a
unique, strong, dedicated woman … she has had more foster children than we can
count, she helps anyone in need and works hard to pass her Inuit heritage onto
the next generation. She owns a restaurant that is open in Red Bay, during the
warm months, The Whaler Restaurant. We were lucky, our campground manager in St
Barbe is a sister to Marilyn’s best friend in Red Bay. Eileen has agreed to
allow us to leave our gifts for Marilyn in her office and she will get them to
Marilyn.
Red Bay is a
fishing village and former site of several Basque whaling stations on the
southern coast of Labrador. Between 1530 and the early 17th century, Red Bay,
known as Balea Baya (Whale Bay), was a major Basque whaling area. The site is
home to three Basque whaling galleons and four small chalupas used in the
capture of whales. The discovery of these vessels makes Red Bay one of the most
precious underwater archaeological sites in the Americas. Red Bay has been
designated a National Historic Site of Canada, and since 2013 it is one of
seventeen Canadian sites added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Sailors from
southern France and northern Spain sent 15 whaleships and 600 men a season to
the remote outpost on the Strait of Belle Isle to try to catch the right whale
and bowhead whales that populated the waters there. In 1565, a ship, believed
to be the San Juan, sank in the waters off Red Bay during a storm. Other,
smaller vessels, such as chalupas, have also been recovered from the waters.
Another galleon was found 25–35 feet below water in 2004. It was the fourth
trans-oceanic ship to have been found in the area. A cemetery on nearby Saddle
Island holds the remains of 140 whalers. Many of the people buried there are
thought to have died from drowning and exposure. Historians believe that a
decline in whale stocks eventually led to the abandonment of the whaling
stations in Red Bay. Today, we visited the interpretive center to learn the
history. The Red Bay National Historic Site Interpretative Center introduces
you to this site, the world's first industrial-scale whale fishery.
Archaeologists have uncovered an astounding number of tools and personal
effects that confirm European habitation of this coast during the 16th and 17th
centuries. Many of these are now conserved in the Interpretation Center. A
Basque chalupa recovered from the waters of the bay and on display in the
museum. It is over 400 year old, reconstructed, whaling chapula! The museum
showcases extensive exhibits featuring actual artifacts from years of
archaeology work including actual Basque clothing, eating and drinking
utensils.
She answered all our questions and offered keen insight into her life.
That night, we enjoyed a hot turkey sandwich dinner at the restaurant across from the campground.
Stay tuned for more adventures tomorrow!
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