Sunday 6/19/2022 - Day 8 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

Our big event for Sunday June 19, 2022 was a bus tour of Cabot Trail. We had a chartered bus from the local college and our local guide was Cheryl. She learned from the best, Paul Hanna! Charlie and I stayed back to tend to the dogs of the caravanners, because it was a full day away from their four legged family members! 

We did use this time to see two dear friends from our old community in Zephyrhills, Majestic Oaks. Keats & Brenda Biron drove over to Bras d'Or from North Sydney to visit with us for a few hours. It was so great to see them! The last time we saw them was when we were here in 2017!

  

You will have to enjoy this trip from the eyes and cameras of the caravanners! Thanks to Sheryl Lalonde and Barbara & Mark Santasiero for your pictures on the Cabot Trail! As they started toward the Cabot Trail, Cheryl gave them some history on Cape Breton. Cape Breton Island is about 190 square miles.

The island was known to Basque fishermen as early as the 15th century and was sighted and identified by John Cabot in 1497 and Jacques Cartier in 1534. Claimed by the French as part of Acadia, it remained largely undeveloped and unsettled, but played a minor role as a fur-trading and fishing outpost. When the Treaty of Utrecht, 1713, ceded most of Acadia to the British, the French retained Cape Breton, which they renamed Ile Royale. Shortly thereafter, they began construction of the fortress of Louisbourg at a small harbor along the southeast coast.

The Treaty of Paris, 1763, ceded the island and France's remaining possessions in the area to the British. Cape Breton became part of the colony of Nova Scotia in 1763, but it remained largely undeveloped until 1784, when it became a separate colony, as one of several separate jurisdictions created for the Loyalist refugees. The Loyalists, who made Sydney the capital of their new colony, were soon overwhelmed by successive waves of Scottish immigrants. They occupied most of the available land along the seacoasts and around Bras d'Or Lake, and with a few hundred returning Acadians made up the bulk of the island's largely rural population. In 1820 the island was reunited to the jurisdiction of Nova Scotia following almost 40 years of turbulent separate status.

The 1920s were some of the most violent times in Cape Breton. They were marked by several severe labor disputes. The famous murder of William Davis by strike breakers, and the seizing of the New Waterford power plant by striking miners led to a major union sentiment that persists to this day in some circles. William Davis Miners' Memorial Day is celebrated in coal mining towns to commemorate the deaths of miners at the hands of the coal companies. Jobs have always been a contributing factor to population spikes and declines on the island. During the 1800’s and 2000’s there were 12 operating coal mines and 1 steel mill. Today, there is only 1 working coal mine, which just recently re-opened. This explains why many of the younger generations are leaving Cape Breton and heading to different cities and provinces.

Taking the bus on the 185 mile Cabot Trail tour allowed everyone to relax and enjoy the spectacular coastal views. While we were here, there are no music festivals on for us to tap our toes to some Cape Breton Celtic. The busy season of festivals is during the summer, beginning in May with the Cabot Trail Relay Run, and ending in October with the Cabot Trail Writers Festival, the Celtic Colors International Festival, and the harvest-season Huckle Buckle Festival.

The Margaree River meanders through the Margaree Valley, leading visitors through splendid landscapes to Margaree Harbor along the Gulf of St. Lawrence. Designated as a Canadian Heritage River for its natural, cultural and historical value, the Margaree is popular for its salmon and some trout fishing. Only fly fishing is allowed. The largest salmon caught was 54 pounds, can you imagine snagging that fish while fly fishing! Fishing takes a back seat to the "Anything That Floats Race." Which is held during the summer festival, and has become a summertime favorite on the river. The Margaree Valley is home to the Maritimes second oldest fish hatchery. The favorite museum on Cape Breton is the Salmon Museum, located here. Margaree also boasts some of the most talented quilters shop and is home to Cape Breton Clay, the resident potter loves to talk!

Here they were met by the unmistakable ‘joie de vivre’ of the Acadian people. They share their vibrant culture through food, music and song in the beautiful French Acadian Region of Chéticamp.

St Peter’s Church, Is an Acadian parish founded in 1785, entrusted to the Eudist Fathers in 1953 and to the Sons of Mary from 1999 to 2005. Three churches have been successively built: one in 1790, then 1810 and in 1861, about one mile south east of the present location. The current church was built in 1893 with stone, hauled by parishioners, from across the harbor on Cheticamp Island. The current church construction cost about $42,000. Father Fiset, the papal leader at this time is entombed under the present day alter. The church’s steeple rises 167 feet.

In 1957, the church was repainted and decorated, frescoes and stained glass windows were added. The organ, one of the first, Casavant, was acquired in 1904 and is still in excellent condition. We are lucky enough to have Janet Davis, a concert pianist, in our group and she played amazing grace for us. St Peter’s Church is perched on high ground near the harbor and can be seen from all parts of the parish and from many, many miles away.

Their next stop was Les Trois Pignons, which houses the Museum of the Hooked Rug and Home Life, an Acadian, cultural, genealogical and visitor center. The museum joins the story of the area's settlement with that of the evolution of hooked rugs. They enjoyed a hooked rug demo by the tour guide from the museum.

The gallery features traditional antiques and contemporary hooked rugs created by local craftspeople as well as masterpieces by world renowned wool artist Elizabeth LeFort.

The Cabot Trail continues along the Gulf of St Lawrence, offering breathtaking views!

You enter Cape Breton Highlands National Park is home to over 500 square miles of magnificent highlands and coastal wilderness. The Park is dominated by an elevated, flat-topped plateau deeply cut by river canyons.

The world-famous Skyline Trail starts at the summit of French Mountain and follows the ridge, which lies to the north of French Mountain high above the ravine carved by Jumping Brook. It is a mostly level trail, with boardwalks over wet spots, teems with wildlife (moose and eagles are almost always seen and whales regularly feed in the waters below) and ends in a series of stairs and viewing platforms that are so cunningly constructed that they cannot be seen from the Cabot Trail below. The Cabot Trail winds up French Mountain around a series of sharp curves, hugging the side of the mountain as it ascends. We climbed French Mountain, 1,600 feet in elevation.

At the MacKenzie Mountain Look-off is a story board of whales, species of fish, their food sources, various sea birds and life on the ocean floor. Want to go whale watching? You can actually do it from here! Keep your eyes on the ocean—look for plumes of vapor as they surface in the Gulf. It is difficult to discuss the land around us without paying attention also to the water that reaches its shores. The Gulf of St Lawrence plays a vital role in transportation and in the migration of marine mammals. The waters are warmer and less salty than the Atlantic Ocean. The floor in the Gulf is cut by "troughs" (valleys) and has "shelves" (plateaus). The ebb and flow of the Gulf currents are of great interest. Creating a nursery for a variety of fish species, the currents also have an effect on all five provinces that they border. One quarter of the total Canadian fish catch comes from these waters.

They exited the park, to enjoy lunch at Mountain View restaurant in Pleasant Bay. Pleasant Bay is recognized as one of the premier whale watching areas on the Cabot Trail. The pilot, humpback, minke and finback are the whales most frequently sited off the coastline of the village and its neighboring communities. Pleasant Bay also offers visitors a unique introduction to the world of whales at The Whale Interpretive Center. A stroll around the harbor will reveal why this village was named Pleasant Bay. Soaring eagles, fishermen at work and the scent of clean salt air are snapshots of nature at its unspoiled best.

North Mountain rises dramatically from the valley floor and tapers somewhat more gradually to the north and west where it meets the coast, although many parts of this coast have vertical cliffs rising high, most notably at Cape Split. A break occurs at Digby Gut where a gap in the mountain ridge is filled by a deep tidal channel separating the eastern end of the mountain from Digby Neck.

Neil's Harbor is a small fishing village just south of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The area may have been originally settled by the French. Neil's Harbor is named after a man by the name of Neil McLennan. The first school in Neil’s Harbor was constructed in 1878. The lighthouse, in recent years, has been used as an ice cream parlor in the summer months.

Victoria Co-Op Fisheries Ltd is Neil's Harbor's largest employer which is located in neighboring New Haven. There are a few cottages and summer homes in Neil's Harbor, but mostly there are local residents who work in the lobster, crab and fishing industry. The population is approximately 300 permanent residents.

The Ingonish area is full of breathtaking coastal and mountain scenery whether bathed in sunshine or covered in snow. In the summer, Ingonish Beach that offers both saltwater and freshwater swimming.

The area is known as a golfer’s paradise, as golfers from around the world flock to the famed Highlands Links, which is considered by many to be Canada’s finest course. Highlands Links was recently rated #1 in Canada and #51 in the world by the Top 100 Golf Course in the world, an independent website and team. Others are lured by the abundant hiking trails that range from walks along coastal headlands to highland ascents in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Hikers from North America gather for the Hike the Highlands Festival in mid- September.

Aspy fault is a 25 mile fault crack that runs from the Atlantic Ocean into Cape Breton Highlands National Park. The Aspy Fault is a strike-slip fault and is often thought to be a part of the Cabot Fault or Great Glen Fault system of Avalonia. This fault runs southward from Cape North through the Margaree Valley. The Aspy River and the upper section of the Margaree River follows the trace of the fault. Evidence shows movement in this fault dating back to the Ordovician period when it was probably created when two continental plates collided and pushed the seafloor upwards, also creating the Appalachian Mountains. Erosion and the presence of this fault have created much of the scenery known today as the Cape Breton Highlands.

The community of St Ann’s and her Bay wrap themselves around the natural curve of this inlet of the Atlantic Ocean. Their Gaelic heritage lives on in hints of their old language, in music, customs, and food. They delight in learning from newcomers and visitors. More about St Ann’s when we spend the day touring in the area.

We enjoyed a pizza dinner from Janet’s Restaurant & Pizza. It has been a while, since I have had pizza and it was very, very good! We ended the evening with a happy hour and fellowship with the other caravaneers.

Nothing beats an awesome day, than an extraordinary sunset! See you tomorrow!

Saturday 6/18/2022 - Day 7 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Saturday June 18th, 2022 we departed Whidden’s Travel Park in Antigonish and made a quick trip of 2 miles to the Sobey’s and Canadian Tire parking lot to shop and measure all the vehicles for the ferry. After the groceries were purchased and measurements completed, we got back onto Highway 104E. Today provided us some spectacular blue skies, offsetting the multitude of greens of the landscapes. Pomquet is a quaint picturesque Acadian village nestled on the shores of St George's Bay. It is about halfway between Antigonish and the Canso Causeway. As unique as its name suggests, Pomquet offers visitors a taste of Acadian culture and history. As we drove, for the first portion of our travels, we hugged the coast of St George's Bay. The bay measures approximately 16 miles wide at its mouth. St George's Bay marks the northern end of the Strait of Canso, one of three outlets for the Gulf of St Lawrence. It is a busy coastal shipping route on account of the Canso Canal. The name Canso came from the Mi'kmaq word kamsook which means "opposite the lofty cliff", referring to the steep cliffs of Chedabucto Bay. This area was identified in 1686 as Canseau on Jean-Baptiste-Louis Franquelin's first map of Acadia, though a later map referred to the Straits of Canceaux, a slightly different spelling. 

In 1749, Surveyor General Charles Morris introduced the current spelling. Port Hastings was designated as the spot for a connecting bridge that was commissioned to be built in 1902, but was never completed. During World War II, the Strait was shipping shortcut to the Atlantic. When Newfoundland joined Confederation in 1948, the issue of connecting the new province to the rest of Canada, required a connecting bridge. Engineering studies suggested that ice in the Strait would quickly damage any bridge and construction began on a causeway in 1952 and was completed in 1955 at a cost.

The causeway links the island of Cape Breton with the Nova Scotia mainland, across the Canso Strait. It replaced the ferry. The causeway is 3,500 feet long, and fills the Canso Strait to a depth of 213 feet, making it the deepest causeway in the world. Its crown is 130 feet wide and its base is 800 feet wide, and its construction required just over 10 million tons of rock for its construction. The mountain face closest to the causeway was used to excavate the rock needed to build the causeway. There is a swing bridge at the Cape Breton side for ocean traffic. We entered Cape Breton, we used a roundabout to exit Hwy 104 onto Hwy 105 into Glendale.

Glendale’s welcome sign boasts that it is ‘home of the first fiddler’s revival.’ How did that happen? In February, 1972, a CBC documentary entitled The Vanishing Cape Breton Fiddler was produced by Ron MacInnis. The premise of this film was the traditional Cape Breton violin music was in a state of decline, and that it would soon disappear entirely! Reaction to this documentary was swift and disbelieving. A dedicated group of residents, discussed the possibility of forming some kind of a fiddlers' festival. The people decided to proceed with the festival and the Cape Breton Fiddlers' Association began. Because of the efforts of this determined group, the first Festival of Cape Breton Fiddling was held in Glendale in July 1973. Over one hundred and thirty proud Cape Breton fiddlers arrived in Glendale that weekend and gave one of the greatest concerts ever witnessed in Cape Breton. Several thousand people made up the audience. The festival continues annually in early July.

Highway 105 travels northeast from Port Hastings along the base of a group of mountains known as "The Big Ridge" to Whycocomagh. Whycocomagh is in the central part of Cape Breton Island. The community sits on the northwestern shore of St. Patrick's Channel, an arm of Bras d'Or Lake. Whycocomagh is a Mi'kmaq word which means "Head of the Waters." Nearby is a Mi'kmaq reserve where wooden sculptures and baskets are made. 

The community is bisected by the Skye River, with the Whycocomagh and We'koqma'q First Nations (a Mi'kmaq community, located west of the river, whereas the community of Whycocomagh is located east of the river and is dominated by descendants of English and Scottish settlers who came to the area in the 18th and 19th centuries; these settlers took to calling the area. Highway 105, the Trans-Canada Highway, runs along the Bras d’Or Lake shore through the area. The beauty of Whycocomagh was noted by Alexander Graham Bell, who is known to have stated that "Whycocomagh is the Rio de Janeiro of North America" due to the picturesque island off its shores.

The Farmer’s Daughter Country Market, in Whycocomagh, recently drew families to Cape Breton by a Facebook ad promising a job and free land. The three families were drawn from across the country to new lives in Cape Breton thanks to a Facebook ad by the Farmer's Daughter Country Market. The ad promised free land for labor and a chance to become part of a small rural community. The business received several thousand responses to the Facebook ad from around the world. The business selected three families, ironically all of them were from British Columbia. Talk about a unique way to get employees!

Highway 105, then follows the north shore of Bras d'Or Lake, bypassing Baddeck. Baddeck is a picturesque, vibrant little village right in the heart of Cape Breton Island set on the shores of the great inland sea known as the Bras d’Or Lakes. Baddeck is widely known as ‘the beginning and end’ of the famous Cabot Trail, a magnificent scenic drive along some of the most stunningly beautiful coastline in the world! In Baddeck, you can experience local attractions such as: the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, the Usige Bann Falls and of course, exploring the Cabot Trail. We will enjoy a few of these later on our caravan.

St. Patricks Channel runs roughly in a northeast to southwest direction from the village of Baddeck to Little Narrows where it joins Whycocomagh Bay. The channel's shores are generally heavily wooded and consist mainly of bold & rocky shorelines interspersed with distinctive white gypsum outcrops and barrier points and beaches. As the channel is part of the Bras d'Or Lake system and the lake is essentially a fiordal system connected to the Atlantic via two channels. The waters of St Patricks Channel are brackish, partially fresh and salt water. By 1829 the shores and rivers of St Patricks Channel were all settled, chiefly by Scottish emigrants.

Highway 105 is still running in a general northeast direction, at St Anns the highway begins ascending the west slope of Kelly's Mountain, to an elevation of 1,475 feet. We skirted the town of St Ann’s along Highway 105. I will come back to St Ann’s later in my blogging. Kelly’s Mountain is known for both its scenic view from the top and its steep slope on both sides of the mountain highway. There is a parking space at the top known as the Bras d'Or Look Off that gives a view of Seal Island Bridge, Great Bras d'Or channel and Boularderie Island, areas where the highway travels after the driver descends the eastern portion of the Highway. It descends the east slope of Kelly's Mountain using a series of sharp turns including a 180° hairpin turn at New Harris Forks before crossing the Great Bras d'Or Channel of Bras d'Or Lake on the Seal Island Bridge.

We crossed Big Seal Island Bras D’Or Bridge, which is over one of the three inlets from the Atlantic Ocean. This inlet is 800 feet deep. It is an arch truss design and crosses the Great Bras d’Or channel of Bras d’Or Lake, connecting Boularderie Island on the south side with Cape Breton Island on the north side. With the third longest bridge span in the province, the Seal Island Bridge opened in 1961 as part of the Trans-Canada Highway project. The structure carries 2 traffic lanes of Highway 105 as well as a sidewalk on each side. The bridge crosses part of the channel on a causeway connecting the north shore of the channel to Seal Island. It consists of eight steel truss spans: a main arch of 500 feet, two side spans of 350 feet, and five approach spans of 250 feet. Highway 105 crosses Boularderie Island and then runs southeast through the village of Bras d'Or. Bras D’Or is called Canada’s Inland Sea. It is a salt-water estuary watershed with three passages to the Atlantic Ocean. The Holocene transgression flooded a complex river-lake system of diverse geology, creating a small, deep inland sea with 12 significant watersheds draining both highlands and lowlands. The differential erosion has resulted in steep hills around the lake and peninsulas within it, which divide the estuarine ecosystem into five, long, deep channels in the north half of the lake and a number of bays in the south.

We crossed the bridge over Mill Creek just before the campground, this is also an inlet from the Atlantic Ocean, but it is 1,000 feet deep. The look of the bridge makes the depth of the inlet deceiving.

We arrived at Arm of Gold Campground, our temporary home for the next two days. We enjoyed a meal of chili and taco soup, with breads and too many desserts. All the fathers in our group enjoyed a Father’s Day card from the staff!

Friday 6/17/2022 - Day 6 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

On Friday June 17th, 2022, we departed Ponderosa Pines Campground. It was an excellent park with views of the Bay of Fundy!

I met up with a friend of Nancy Ragland's that did the Key West Rally with us. This trip she is on a 72-day Fantasy RV trip in the Canadian Maritimes. But, she did not give up her Yankee RV sticker! Good job, Marla!

Look at the co-pilots that Jack & Ann Sapp have! Aren't they too cute!

We took our rigs and cars separate, back to Hopewell Rocks. We drove the cars down below and took the short walk to the viewing platform and headed down the stairs to the bay’s floor at the base of the “flower pots.” At the base of the rocks it was still a bit moist, as the tide was just starting to go out. We were able to walk under the arch and get some pictures up close. We tried to get to the water’s edge, to dip our toes in the water …. But the sand by the edge was more like mud and all we did was sink! Good thing we had boots or water shoes on!

We continued to skirt the Bay of Fundy as we headed to our next destination. We are traveling on Route 114, which is a major tourist route to the Hopewell Rocks Park, Fundy National Park and the Fundy Scenic Drive.

We came upon the town of Hillsborough, New Brunswick. It made me think of our kids in Florida, they live in Hillsborough County. The village of Hillsborough is located on the banks of the Petitcodiac River. The village promotes itself as the “Eastern Gateway to the Fundy Tidal Zone”. Hillsborough boasts many historic sites, the Steeves House, the New Brunswick Railway Museum and a historic post office.

The Old Hillsborough Post Office is a two-story brick and sandstone Beaux Arts style institutional building that stands proudly on Main Street in Hillsborough. Just inside the double front doors, the original wall of mail boxes still scrutinizes the public area. For ninety-seven years the joys and sorrows of the villagers waited behind each brass and glass door to be revealed by the box owner’s key. The old Hillsborough Post Office has local historic significance as the symbol of a turning point in the development of the village. The stunning contrast of red brick highlighted by local sandstone door and window surrounds, string courses, keystones, entablature and foundations. The unflinching angles and plans of the building’s masonry exterior are unmistakably a class apart from the softer contours of the frame buildings cascading toward it down Main Street. Completed in 1913, the Old Post Office is more recent in design, material and construction techniques than its neighbors, setting it apart along the streetscape.

We came upon the town of Memramcook, New Brunswick. It is where most Acadians rallied after the deportation and the loss of their lands, it is quite natural to refer to this area as the “Cradle of New Acadia”.  It was here where dispersed Acadians re-established their homes. Bit by bit, the Acadian spirit slowly rekindled itself and began breathing life into the newly settled Acadian communities hugging the three Maritime Provinces’ coastline. Memramcouke really is the foundation that re-energized Acadians to rebuild their lives and their villages. Dating back to 1700, the Parish of Memramcook’s first settlers were aboriginal peoples from the Mi’kmaq tribe who made their home along the river. Did you know that “Memramcook” is a Mi’kmaq name that, according to some, means “crooked river”? Many controversies marked the final spelling choice of the parish’s name. At the beginning, it was written “Memeramcouque”, and then it became “Mamramkook”. Finally, after many years, the spelling “Memramcook” was universally adopted. Memramcook, like many other Acadian villages, was built around salt marshes.

Charlie is ready to hold the wheel tight, as we get ready to enter Nova Scotia. There are large signs indicating “High Winds.” It must be winding, because we can see several wind turbines here. There are also a series of bridges we must traverse to enter Nova Scotia.

As we entered Nova Scotia, Highway 2 becomes Highway 104. This is where the wind turbines are located that we saw before we crossed the bridge.

We stopped at the Information Center for Nova Scotia and pick up the books and maps. We were lucky and just before we were scheduled to depart we got to hear the bag piper play!

Highway 104 in Nova Scotia is also known as Miners Memorial Highway. It runs from Fort Lawrence at the New Brunswick border near Amherst to River Tillard near St. Peter's. Except for the portion on Cape Breton Island between Port Hawkesbury and St. Peter's, it is part of the Trans-Canada Highway. The provincial government named the highway the Miners Memorial Highway in 2008, one month before the 50th anniversary of the Springhill Mining Disaster of 1958. The 1958 bump, an underground earthquake, occurred on October 23, was the most severe "bump" in North American mining history. The 1958 bump injured Springhill residents and devastated the town's economy. It is not exactly known what causes a "bump". It could be the result of coal being totally removed from a bedrock unit. The resulting geological stresses upon overlying strata may cause the pillars to suddenly and catastrophically disintegrate, so that the galleries themselves collapse. No. 2 colliery was one of the deepest coal mines in the world. Sloping shafts 14,200 feet in length led to a vast labyrinth of galleries more than 4,000 feet below the surface. Mining techniques there had been changed 20 years before the 1958 bump, from "room and pillar" to "long wall retreating" after reports had shown the increased danger of "bump" phenomena resulting from the former technique. A small bump occurred at 7:00 pm during the evening shift; it was ignored, as this was a somewhat common occurrence. However, just over an hour later, at 8:06 pm, an enormous bump "severely impacted the middle of the three walls that were being mined and the ends of the four levels nearest the walls". The bump spread as three distinct shock waves, resembling a small earthquake throughout the region, alerting residents on the surface over a wide area to the disaster. "Dräger" teams and teams of barefaced miners entered No. 2 colliery to begin the rescue effort. They encountered survivors at the 13,400-foot level walking or limping toward the surface. Gas released by the bump was encountered in increasing concentrations at the 13,800-foot level where the ceiling had collapsed, and rescuers were forced to work down shafts that were in a partial state of collapse or were blocked completely by debris. Miners not saved by being either in side galleries or some other shelter were immediately crushed during the bump, the coal galleries and faces being completely destroyed. 75 survivors were on the surface by 4:00 am on October 24, 1958. Rescue teams continued working, but the number of rockfalls and the amount of debris slowed progress. Meanwhile, the Canadian and international news media had made their way to Springhill. The disaster became famous for being the first major international event to appear in live television broadcasts. As the world waited and those on the surface kept their vigil, rescuers continued to toil below ground trying to reach trapped survivors. Teams began to arrive from other coal mines in Cumberland County, on Cape Breton Island and in Pictou County. After five and a half days, contact was established with a group of 12 survivors on the other side of a 160-foot rockfall. A rescue tunnel was dug; it broke through to the trapped miners on Thursday, October 30, 1958. On Saturday, November 1, 1958, another group of survivors was found. None were found after those. Instead, bodies of the dead were hauled out in airtight aluminum coffins, on account of the advanced stage of decomposition. Decomposition was accelerated by the earth's heat in the depths of 14,000 feet below the mine entrance. Of the 174 miners in # 2 mine at the time of the bump: 75 died, and 99 were trapped but rescued.

The town of Truro has a sign that indicates it is “the hub of Nova Scotia.” Truro is located on the Salmon River east of the head of Cobequid Bay. No one knows for sure where the name "Truro" originated. Before Europeans came to Nova Scotia the Mi'kmaq had been in the province for thousands of years. In this area they camped along the shores of the Salmon River.  In 1689, Mathieu Martin "the first born Frenchman in Acadia" secured land along the Wecobequitk River at the site of present-day Truro. He founded the Acadian settlement of Cobequit. By 1748 there were 142 families in the Cobequit district. In 1755, at the time of the expulsion of the Acadians by the English, the Acadians left their homes at Cobequit to avoid deportation and the villages were eventually burned by the English, discouraging the Acadians' return. In 1758, the Governor of Nova Scotia, issued a proclamation which was circulated in the New England colonies offering free land to settlers who would come to Nova Scotia. Captain Alexander McNutt applied for land for himself and others from New Hampshire. These people were of Scotish-Irish descent. In 1761, about 60 families came to settle Truro Township on the south side of the bay. The year 1858 can be considered the turning point in the history of Truro, the railroad opened between Truro and Halifax. No other single factor in Truro’s history had such a profound effect on the life and growth of the community. The railway line, with its potential to expand in several directions, gave rise to Truro’s nickname, “The Hub of Nova Scotia”. After the coming of the railway to Truro, the dangers of fire were even more possible from the sparks of wood-burning train engines. George Jones, Truro’s first barber and an early African Nova Scotian resident of the town, suggested that a public meeting be held to discuss the situation. From this meeting, it was decided to form a “Bucket and Ladder Company”. World War II brought the development of Camp Debert as a training center for the Canadian Army. This camp was designed to hold 15,000 men. Over 4,000 men were employed in the construction and operation of the camp and many carpenters, electricians, drivers, painters and laborers earned from 35 cents to 65 cents an hour, better than many places in Truro were offering.

Antigonish, is the highland heart of Nova Scotia. It is a small town with a rich in Gaelic history. Home of one of Canada`s most prestigious universities, St. Francis Xavier University. Antigonish is a Mi'kmaq name and, depending upon whom you ask, has two quite distinct meanings. One is ‘The place where the branches are torn off by bears gathering beechnuts’ or ‘Meeting place of five forked rivers, West River, South River, Brierly Brook, Wright's River, and east Wright's River’.

The French arrived in the 1650’s, but were driven off by the Mi'kmaq. The Mi'kmaq, a branch of the wandering Algonquin race, once were scattered over New England and much of Atlantic Canada. In 1755, the Acadian French began to settle the east end of Antigonish County. The largest centers of Acadian population in the county became Pomquet, Tracadie, and Havre Boucher. After the American Revolution, 3000 free black citizens enter Nova Scotia. Some of them settle in Antigonish. The first Highland Games, celebrating their Gaelic heritage, was held in 1861. The railroad service opened between New Glasgow and Antigonish in 1880. During World War I, a fund drive was launched to raise money to equip a hospital ship for the wounded soldiers. A plea for volunteers went out from every pulpit, platform and classroom. Many university students enlisted in the Canadian Officers Training Corps and in other units as well. During World War II, everyone from soldiers to the women of the area did their part for the war effort. Lloyd MacDonald was the first Antigonish soldier to give his life in the war. Antigonish was the first town in Nova Scotia to have all of its streets paved. In 1989, the Town of Antigonish celebrated its centennial.

We arrived at our home for the night, Whidden’s Travel Park. We enjoyed dinner at the Maritime Inn and Main St Café. My dinner was haddock. It was very good food and conversation. A quiet night was enjoyed by all.

Thursday 6/16/2022 - Day 5 of 31 on our 2022 Canadian Maritime #2 Caravan with Yankee RV Tour

We departed Rockwood Park for out travel to Alma, Hopewell Rocks and Hopewell Cape. We departed the park so early, even the fog had not finished rising from the pond!

 

There is a unique sculpture near the pavilion in the park. It is a sculpture to celebrate, remember, and honor the men and women who have been injured or died while at work in and around the city of Saint John. This sculpture's location has the essentials of the natural surroundings, along with a sense of reflection we feel when near water, this space will create an environment of contemplation as well as a place to reflect and heal.

As you approach the sculpture from the road, walking towards the lake, you will see, crouching under the low end of the I-beam, the shadowy figure of a woman, which is the pivoting point of the sculpture giving it grounding and support. She joins with a second ghostly figure bent with the strain of raising the beam. These two figures represent workers who have been lost in the past. The third figure is stretching to add her support to the cause. She is a figure in transition, stepping with confidence through memory into the present. By placing her on the crate in a precarious position, our intention is to make the viewer more aware of the importance of safe work practices. The fourth figure brings us sharply into focus. This figure is pushing boundaries, achieving things beyond his reach, supporting and adding his energy to the group.

The larger than life sculpture shows people working together in order to lift a beam into place. There is excitement and a sense of pride that is felt by a task accomplished together. There is tension, an unspoken tension that comes from doing your best to support your accepted part of the task, while not wanting to let others down. Realizing your personal boundaries you work together to accomplish the job at hand. Although facing the possibility of injury, they look beyond themselves, spurred by the vision of a city worthy of its inhabitants. Throughout history, we have pressed boundaries to achieve and expand our environments both physically and mentally.

The raised beam, uplifted by the workers, is the arm of the sundial. The sundial marks the passage of time, which lessens the impact of tragedy and injury and allows for acceptance. The morning and afternoon hours are marked on the brick plaza with different colored bricks. The two vertical faces of the beam feature the motto of the memorial in both official languages intertwined with images of people who have been injured or lost at work. There are many kinds of injuries incurred in the work place; some of them are physical and some are emotional. The images carved in the beam reflect the ALL. The end of the beam and the pointer of the sundial is a stylized canary inspired by the memorial logo. Within the caged breast of the bird, a light is located. At night, this light would serve as a beacon and cast interesting patterns on the surrounding area. The sundial is oriented to be accurate at noon on April 28, the day chosen to honor people who have been injured or killed at work, “Day of Mourning.”

After we exited the campground, we followed a cloverleaf pattern on the highway and surface streets to get back onto Hwy 1 East. As we got back onto Hwy 1, we could see some of the campsites from Rockwood Park sitting high atop a hill on our left. We took pictures of Saint John from this spot yesterday. The view from this height, was amazing and what we could see in the city was spectacular too!

Quispamsis, what an unusual name for a town! The original inhabitants of the town of Quispamsis were the Maliseet First Nation, part of the Algonquin Federation. The name, "Quispamsis" was translated from the Maliseet language and means, "little lake in the woods", the lake being present-day Ritchie Lake. Acadians, British pre-Loyalists and Loyalists settled in the area around 1783, with many receiving land grants along the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers. Quispamsis combined in 1998 with the nearby communities of Gondola Point and Wells to form the present town. Quispamsis is the fastest growing town in the province of New Brunswick.

The Town of Hampton is nestled in the Kennebecasis River valley between the Pickwauket Hills and Passekeag Ridge. Hampton has a long history reflected in the native names of its natural surroundings. In 1784 the Loyalists discovered Ossekeag and began to build what would become the community of Hampton. Hampton is blessed with beautiful marsh areas, rich farmland and abundant wildlife. In the spring our marshes flood to prepare for its guests arrival. These help attract the wildlife, which contributes to Hampton being a nature lover’s paradise.  On a summer night, you can watch meteor showers, because the stars at night are almost always bright because fog is a rarity. 

Sussex is the covered bridge capital of Atlantic Canada. Originally settled by United Empire Loyalists moving up the St. John River Valley. Historically a farming community, Sussex has capitalized on its excellent geography to become a leading transportation, manufacturing, distribution and service center in Atlantic Canada.

The Town was named in honor of the Duke Of Sussex, son of King George III. The area was settled by a few families before the arrival of the United Empire Loyalists in 1784 from New Jersey. As the settlement of the Loyalists developed, the Parish Of Sussex was established in 1786. Growth continued in the Parish with the development of the agricultural and forestry industry and the opening of the European and American railway line in 1860, thus leading to the incorporation of the Town Of Sussex in 1904. In addition, from 1939 through the 60's, Sussex was the location of Camp Sussex. During the war years, Camp Sussex was home to 10,000 troops, thus providing a natural tie with the Canadian Armed Forces.

We got off Highway 1 onto Route 114. Our road log indicates that we descend 1,200 feet, to the Bay of Fundy, on this road. Along Route 114, we pass through a portion of the Bay of Fundy National Park.

It encompasses 10 miles of dramatic shoreline along the Bay of Fundy, famous for having the world’s highest tides. Twice a day, up to 8 feet of water or more rush in and out, roughly equivalent to the height of a four-floor building. This means exceptional views and a unique chance to explore the sea floor at low tide.

There are crystal clear lakes and even beaver ponds in Fundy National Park of Canada. The first views of the Bay of Fundy are breathtaking! The road looks like it was going to dip right into the bay!

We arrived at the pulse of the Bay of Fundy, in Alma. We secured the large parking area a couple blocks from the Lobster and Bake Shop. The local people rely on our lobster and scallop fishing, and tourism. Alma is in a unique scenic location where you can witness the constant changes of the tides.

The village of Alma provides two large lobster retail outlets, 2 motels, one hotel, a service station, a church, camping facilities, liquor retail and a grocery store, and several restaurants with menus that reflect the Bay of Fundy. The village is famous for baked goods, a very eclectic book store and gift shops. Some of Alma's constant summer guests are the hummingbirds - the bay is the most traveled migration route for so many bird species. Our wagon master told us "We go to Alma for the lobster and sticky buns."

Kelly’s Bake Shop draws in tourists and locals with its sticky, oversized sweet buns. Tourists from all over the world have sampled these famous cinnamon sticky buns – some actually work it into their itinerary. On a busy day, Kelly’s can go through nearly 3,000 sticky buns. The bakery also sells many other products, including date squares, breads, pies, cakes, tarts, doughnuts – and cookies. On the counter sit several large glass cookie jars, each filled generously with fresh cookies, and during a high traffic day, those jars can be re-filled as many as 15 times. Mixes are taboo at Kelly’s Bake Shop – everything is made from scratch, even fillings, and these homespun recipes have been refined for uniformity. With its red gingham curtains, well-scrubbed whitewash, friendly service and old-style baking, Kelly’s Bake Shop is a must visit location!

Eat lobster the way it was meant to be. We enjoyed freshly cooked lobsters on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. Collin’s Lobster offers freshly cooked lobster. There is a unique taste to freshwater lobster. The tub of live lobsters had some huge ones! One was 18 pounds! You can buy and eat the lobster at the shop, at their picnic tables or take it home. The lobster was cooked and other caravaneers will help you crack the lobster if you are a novice at it. They have scallops, salmon and shrimp for sale also.

After, we enjoyed the lobster and sticky buns we got back on the road and drove on some pretty sketchy roads. There was some serious road washout and a detour along the bay. While it was beautiful, the road was rough and narrow. But, we all made it safely. 

Our destination before the campground is the Hopewell Rocks. Here you can experience the monumental power of the world’s highest tides with unique access to the ocean floor. Our private tour guide, Sophia told us that in other parts of the world, the average tidal range is three feet or less, but at Hopewell Rocks the tides can reach a height of fourteen feet, twice a day. The tides travel between four and eight vertical feet per hour, depending on the lunar phases. Each tidal flow contains approximately 100 billion tons of water. These dramatic highs and lows have worked for thousands of years to sculpt the Hopewell Rocks. It’s like a piece of fine art, created by nature!

Here you can enjoy the Rocks from above and below. Our tour guide walked us on paths and outlooks that we have never been on before. 

We arrived at high tide, so we had to see the rocks from above. Tomorrow, we will come back in the morning and see the rocks from the ocean floor!

We headed back to the campground to get set up and enjoy some fellowship with the other caravanners!